Introduction by Gabrielle Van Zuylen
The famous couturiers of this century have replaced the Renaissance prices
and popes, the kings and nobles of France, the great landowners of the English
eighteenth century, the rich of the Industrial Revolution and bankers and mill
owners as the innovators and the inventors of form and taste across the world.
These men and women come from different countries, different continents, and
their influence and vision transforms the lives of all, rich and poor, around
the globe. Their eye for line and for life scans, interprets, and forms the
world that we work and live in. They fundamentally influence and shape the way
we dress, live, and move, and how we see ourselves in time. How logical that
their own gardens reveal the sense of their visiontheir private world.
The great couturier Cristobal Balenciaga gave his credo after his retirement:
"A dress designer must be an architect for the plans, a sculptor for the
form, a painter for color, a musician for harmony, and a philosopher to understand
measure." His definition of creativity, severely observed during his years
of work and crystallized by his reputation, shaped the major figures of today's
high fashion. His vision is equally valid for the practice of the art of the
garden. The dress designer's art ideally reveals the beauty of the body, its
line and movement, in exactly the same way that a great gardener uses the inherent
natural possibilities of a site to reveal the beauty of the surrounding landscape.
Hubert de Givenchy speaks for all his colleagues when he states that, "Each
article of clothing must become one with every gesture: it's one's life, it
is life. Each material is alive." He could be speaking of his gardens,
of all gardens. The texture of plants and the architecture of trees are the
stuff of all gardens. Color in the garden is the link between the green and
brown of the earth and the endless changes of the light in the sky. So what
could be more revealing, personal, and fascinating than to see the private gardens
of these princes of invention and taste here brilliantly photographed by Claire
de Virieu?
Giorgio Armani on the Italian Isola de Pantelleria intensifies the blues of
the sky and water with the opulence of light and form. Stephan Janson in Tangier
uses these elements for a different purpose, while Yves Saint Laurent and Pierre
Bergé preserve and intensify the Majorelle garden of Marrakesh. In England,
Hardy Amies, the Queen's couturier, has created a cottage garden in a village
lost in time, while Anouska Hempel's black swans symbolize the strict strength
of plan. In America, Bill Blass has surrounded his eighteenth-century Connecticut
house with gardens displaying refinement, elegance, and simplicity. Oscar de
la Renta has made a garden of love and memory with his wife Annette beside a
magnificent New England landscape. And Kenzo has created a Japanese flower and
serenity garden in the Bastille neighborhood in Paris.
To quote Marcel Proust, "By adding here and there a supplementary leaf,
I build my work, I dare not say ambitiously like a cathedral, but very simply
like a dress."
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