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450 full-color illustrations
256 pages 9-5/8 x 13"
Paper over board
ISBN 0-7892-0202-6 $75.00

 
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Bulgari is a lavishly illustrated exploration of Italy's greatest jeweler.
New photography and archival pictures trace the development of the Bulgari style,
a distinctive look that has captivated royalty, movie stars, and others for
more than a century. Since its start in Rome in 1884and throughout its
years of expansion through shops from Los Angeles to New York, from Madrid and
Athens to Jeddah and Hong Kongthe Bulgari firm has launched trends and
revivals.
In this volume, detailed chapters examine a range of successful innovations
such as the easy-to-wear everyday jewels made with precious gems, the powerful
modular units combined in repeating patterns, and the recent trademark Bulgari
wristwatches. Other chapters describe the creative inspiration that led the
firm to its famous juxtaposition of unusual materials: mixing colorful semiprecious
stones with priceless diamonds; mounting ancient coins in gold jewelry; and
incorporating materialslike steel and white porcelainthat had never
before been used in quality jewelry.
These and other fashions have sparked countless imitations by other jewelers,
copies that can never rival the polish and flair of the Bulgari originals. The
first book ever on Bulgari, this elegant volume will delight anyone in the fields
of fashion and jewelry design as well as the many enthusiastic collectors of
Bulgari pieces.
Daniela Mascetti is director of the jewelry department of Sotheby's London,
and the author of several books on jewelry, two of which were written together
with Amanda Triossi, who is also a jewelry expert at Sotheby's International.
Since the 1920s Hollywood stars such as Mary Pickford, Kay Frances, Gary Cooper,
Shelley Winters, Tyrone Power, Zsa Zsa Gabor and Grace Kelly, later Princess
Grace of Monaco, have either bought or owned Bulgari jewels. Countless celebrities
have regularly visited the Bulgari shop in Rome from the years of the dolce
vita on: Audrey Hepburn, Mel Ferrer, Gina Lollobrigida, Sophia Loren, Ingrid
Bergman, Lee Radziwill, Virna Lisi, Merle Oberon, Ursula Andress, Kirk Douglas,
Anna Magnani, Romy Schneider, Laura Antonelli, Charles Bronson, Jill Ireland,
Mireille Darc, Veruschka, Klaus Kinski, John Wayne, Tony Curtis, Alice and Helen
Kessler, and Mina...
For Richard Burton, who gave Elizabeth Taylor a Bulgari ring during the filming
of Cleopatra in 1963, visiting Bulgari premises was a new and exciting
experience. "I introduced her to beer," he is known to have said, "and she introduced
me to Bulgari." If for Burton Bulgari was a novelty in 1963, for Liz it had
become customary to receive Bulgari jewels. During those turbulent days of Cleopatra,
she was conflicted over her relationship with Burton. Her fourth husband, Eddie
Fisher, made the last attempt to save their marriage: he rushed out to Bulgari
and bought her a fabulous emerald necklace. Life with Elizabeth had taught him
the therapeutic value of such gifts; he knew that a beautiful jewel would make
everything wonderful for some time.
Film directors and producers such as Carlo Ponti and Roberto Rossellini have
shopped at Bulgari for Sophia Loren and for Ingrid Bergman, their respective
wives. Vittorio De Sica is known to have been a client since 1939. Bulgari's
association with the film industry has been strengthened in the last decades.
In the 1970s American actress Jessica Lange was frequently seen wearing Bulgari
jewels; for example, she wore panelled gold, emerald and diamond earrings in
a photograph on the April 1979 cover of the American magazine Interview.
Her seven-year exclusive contract with Dino de Laurentiis also included an association
with Bulgari. In her first film, King Kong (1976), Langealthough
scantily dressed and for most of the time in the clutches of the monsterstill
had the opportunity to show off Bulgari jewels for which the firm still receives
credit.
Since the 1990s the firm has frequently loaned jewels to film stars to be worn
on important occasions such as the Academy Awards; to Glenn Close in 1993, for
example, and to Susan Sarandon in 1994. Bulgari also gave a BVLGARI-BVLGARI
watch to Anthony Hopkins in honor of his Oscar for The Silence of the Lambs
in 1991.
A spectacular necklace of 1972, decorated with stylized lotus motifs set with cabochon sapphires, black onyx and salmon pink coral highlighted with diamonds. The stylized floral pattern is of clear Egyptian derivation and illustrates how Bulgari readily responded to cultural phenomena of the time. Egyptian art, design and jewels came to the forefront in the western world in the early 1970s following the sensational first ever exhibition of the treasures of Tutankhamun.
A group of eight bracelet-watches from the 1970s showing variations on the snake bracelet motif. These are either decorated with polychrome enamel and gemstones, or are characterized by a much more stylized form, where the dials become a feature of the design. In these latter examples the bracelet is either a coil of Tubogas or an elaborate woven band. Note the chromatic contrast achieved by the juxtaposition of differently colored metals such as gold and blackened steel.

Kirk Douglas photographed in front of Bulgari, 1964.
Audrey Hepburn with her son Sean entering Bulgari, 1971.
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